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| Jamaica Trip Report
5/24/04-5/30/04
Couples Negril
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I
think I’ve got a touch of island fever
I
do believe I feel a bit sautéed
~Jimmy
Buffett |
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Since we were mostly incredibly lazy and didn’t
do much other than soak up the sun, I’ll do a topical report instead
of chronological. This was our second trip to Couples Negril; we spent
our honeymoon there in November, 2000.
We like the weather better in November—less rain, more
wind—so we’ll probably wait until fall when we make our next trip.
Yes, we liked the resort enough to do a second trip, and still enjoy it
enough that we’ll plan another one in the future. Not so many trips
that we exclude other destinations but often enough that we can go and
fully relax and enjoy each other’s company. That and drink rum, of
course. For those of you who aren’t familiar with this resort,
Couples is an all-inclusive resort—all food and drinks (including top
shelf alcohol) plus activities & sports—including scuba and
water-skiing—are included in your price. Couples has three resorts in
Jamaica—Couples Ocho Rios, Couples Swept Away (on the beach in Negril)
and Couples Negril (which is on Bloody Bay in Negril, in between Grand
Lido and the older of the Riu properties in Negril—the newest Riu is
around the Bay further.) The resort is fairly small—around 240 rooms.
It is a resort for adult, mixed-sex couples only.
While the majority of people seem to be on their honeymoon or
celebrating anniversaries, there are others like us who want a nice
relaxing & romantic vacation without a special occasion to go along.
I would say the majority of people who were there this week were in
their late 20s through late 30s, with smatterings of older couples as
well. As this was not our honeymoon and there were more people at the
resort than there were on our honeymoon, we socialized more this
time—around the pool, at meals, at the bars, etc. People were all very
friendly and open to chatting in the public areas, and if you want more
privacy there is ample time and location for that as well. |
| Getting There: |
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We flew American Airlines through Miami to Montego
Bay, no hassles, quick trip. We passed through immigration and customs
without problem or lines (our flight was not full and there weren’t
many other flights arriving at the same time). Went to the new Couples
booth in the airport (well, it’s new to us—I did say it’s been 3
½ years since we were in Jamaica) and there was a crowd of people and
luggage waiting there. A Couples agent asked our name, gave us our
registration card to fill out and told us it would be about 20 minutes,
so we went to the bathroom and tried to stretch out our muscles a
little. Some people were getting Red Stripes at a bar but we’d had a
couple minis on the plane and were set. As promised, about 15 minutes
later the porters started loading our luggage and they directed the
Swept Away and Negril people outside to the buses where they separated
us again. We left the airport at 11:00 am and arrived at the resort
about 12:15. The drive was uneventful—we had 7 or 8 couples on the bus
but it was pretty quiet—everyone seemed self-contained, and we just
enjoyed the scenery as we drove through the countryside.
We had a 4:00pm return flight out of Montego Bay so
we took a shuttle at 12:15. We were VERY full on this trip, a little
more social, and it just took an hour to get back to the airport. The
check-in lines weren’t bad, security was quick, and we had plenty of
time to pick up all the souvenirs we were too lazy to buy in Negril—we
didn’t go into town for a shopping trip because we weren’t planning
to get much. |
| The Resort: |
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Check-in took about 10 minutes—we sat down, they
came around with cool cloths and then champagne flutes. Soon a desk
clerk came by to ask for our registration cards, our visitor cards (from
immigration), our credit cards, and hotel vouchers if appropriate (we
booked directly with the resort). When the clerk took my information I
requested the 3rd floor of Building 1, as that is where we
spent our honeymoon and thought the location was perfect. She came back
and told me that Bldg 1 was full and she had to put us in Building 2
(just next door) but we could check back the next day for availability
in Bldg 1. We planned to do that but decided that Building 2 was just as
convenient as Bldg 1 so we stayed put.
We had a Gardenview room—this is the cheapest room and
perfectly fine in my opinion. We like the third floor—despite the
extra stairs involved—because when we sit on the balcony we’re at
tree top level with the birds. Plus, no one is above us. I have no idea
if you hear room noise from people above you or not—we never heard any
room noise from the sides, except when we were outside and others were
also out on their balconies.
The deluxe gardenview room has a tile floor
(occasionally slippery, so do be careful), a king bed with low tables on
each side, reading lamps, a side chair, entertainment cabinet &
table, standing drawers, and closet with luggage rack. The balcony
contained two faux wicker chairs and a table, as well as a towel rack
for drying (there are also several wooden hooks inside the room for
drying swimsuits & towels). There are mirrors and outlets in the room (none in our
bathroom, and the bathroom hairdryer is hard wired, so if you bring your
own hair dryer you’ll have to do your hair in the bedroom) There’s
also a full length mirror on the back of the door, a safe in the closet
(it has a keyed lock you get at check-in) and a large umbrella. We never
used ours, despite the rain, but we saw others using it—it’s a HUGE
golf umbrella, will easily cover two people. There is air conditioning
and a ceiling fan and both work great! Bugs LOVE me so we had to sleep
with the balcony doors closed and the a/c on. If bugs don’t bother
you, you can probably sleep with the doors open and the fan on instead.
Several people have mentioned low water pressure and that continues to
be a problem, but if you give it a couple minutes the water pressure
(and hot water) will come back. It didn’t ruin my stay, that’s for
sure! Also, I had no problem with the hairdryer that comes standard in
the bathroom—it’s a regular 1500 watt, not a salon dryer but it gets
the job done. Plus, it doubles as a nightlight—very cool!
The resort is laid out sort of like a bow-tie—the
main building and pool are in the center with residential room blocks on
either side. That’s very simplistic, and a quick look at any map will
tell you it doesn’t look like a bow-tie, but that’s still how
I think of it. “Our”
side had 5 room blocks (buildings), the spa, some fish ponds, the tennis
courts and nurse’s station, and if you went to the beach, you found
the bocce ball court, water sports and the scuba pool.
The main building holds the lobby, piano bar, administrative
offices, gift shops, internet room, Cassava Terrace restaurant and the
Main Bar, kitchens, cardio room and the aerobics studio. In front of
this building is the Beach Grill and Bar, pool and pool bar & hot
tubs, and then the beach. On the other side are 4 room blocks, fish
ponds, wedding gazebo, nude beach (yes, the signs say “nude beach”,
not clothing optional), the beach volleyball court and the horseshoe
pit. All along the beach
are loungers and hammocks and a large swimming area is roped off. The
pool is surrounded by lounge chairs with float pads, umbrellas and
tables. We were told that the resort was over 80% occupancy all week yet
we never had any problems with crowding, waiting for drinks or food, or
finding a lounge chair. |
| Drinks/Food: |
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This is our favorite part of the resort!!! My
husband’s biggest complaint (except when he’s hung over) is that the
bars don’t open until 10 am….Well, they have to restock sometime. There are four bars—the pool bar, the Beach grill bar, Main
bar and Piano bar. You can get cocktail service on the beach using a red
flag. We mainly used the pool bar and Beach Grill bar. All the
bartenders were friendly and I never had to wait more than a couple
minutes to get a drink, no matter how many people were around.
I noticed that the bars had Red Stripe Light now (due to some keg
issues, I was never sure what kind of beer would be available at
whatever bar I was at—but no problem mon!)
We had lots of rum drinks and rum cream drinks because, well, who
wants to drink vodka in Jamaica (apparently, lots of people do, but I
don’t drink it at home so I’m not going to drink it on
vacation—we’re rum drinkers) I also filled my water bottle quite
frequently at the self-serve station in the Beach Grill. They have soda
and fruit juice too, but I’m a Diet Coke drinker and Couples only has
Pepsi products.
There are three restaurants and seemingly
many more dining options—they’re very flexible! The restaurants are
the Cassava Terrace, the Beach Grill, and Otaheite, and we ate in all of
them. We ate a great deal, it seems. Breakfast is a large buffet in
Cassava Terrace that opens at 7:30 (coffee is available before that, and
there are also coffee makers in each room) This buffet is wonderful and
covers ALL the bases. There is an omelet station, pancakes, breads,
muffins, Danish, and bagels, fresh fruit, a woman making smoothies,
yogurt & cheese, bacon, sausage, potatoes, and then a Jamaican
specialty that was different each day. I usually got a bagel with cream
cheese and smoked fish (they had smoked salmon or smoked marlin each
day) and bacon, and whatever else looked yummy that morning. Had a
smoothie one day. Had mango and soursop fruit another day. Coffee or
tea, and water are delivered to your table, and fruit juices are
available on the buffet. You can order room service for breakfast—you
put a sign on your door the night before stating what time you want it
delivered (half-hour time slots) but the options are limited—fruit
and/or muffins & such. We like breakfast and usually want more than
that so we didn’t use that option this trip.   
The Beach Grill opens at 11:00. It has a soup
of the day (I am ADDICTED to the soups at Couples and frequently had 2
or 3 bowls a day from different restaurants!) nachos, fruit & salad
(varied by day—one day they had a Caesar salad station, one day they
had baba ghanouj & hummus with crudités, etc) At the grill, you can
get beef or chicken patties, hamburgers, fish & chips, jerk chicken,
a couple other standard grill items. One day they had gyros, another
chicken pitas. Also fries. Enterprising people got fries, added the
cheese from the nacho station, and had cheese fries for their afternoon
snack. In the evening, the Beach Grill becomes a pasta and “basics”
restaurant—steak, chicken breast, fish. Alas, we never made it for
dinner this trip. I had several enjoyable meals there—I love the
Jamaican beef or chicken patties, the jerk chicken, and the fish &
chips are quite yummy too. But the star is the soup….. Last week I ate
red pea soup, conch chowder, clam chowder, shrimp bisque, split pea
soup, pumpkin soup, pepperpot soup, creamy potato soup, chicken noodle
soup, and vegetable & beef soup. I loved them ALL! 
Cassava Terrace has a lunch buffet that runs
from 12:30-2:30 I think. They also have a soup of the day (two soups at
lunch is why I often ate between the two restaurants), sandwiches,
salads (pre-made as well as lettuce and other raw veggies) and hot
dishes, including local specialties. Then fruit and desserts too. Huge
selection. More food choices than I need at lunch! Sometimes we’d eat
in the restaurant (which is a lovely open-sided area with a tall wooden
ceiling, fans, and views of the ocean if you sit in the smoking area.
The non-smoking side can be a little dark, but you need a rest from the
harsh glare of the sun sometimes.)
Sometimes
I’d get a plate and go back to my lounger at the pool and eat there.
About half the week, Cassava Terrace has an a
la carte menu and seated service for dinner. When this is the case, the menu is
placed outside the restaurant so you can decide if you want to eat
there. The Beach Grill also posts its evening menu ahead of time.
Cassava Terrace meals include an appetizer, soup, salad bar (similar to
the one at the lunch buffet), entrée, and dessert. Wine is served by
the waiters, or you can get cocktail service from the adjacent Main Bar.
We LOVE seafood and seemed to gravitate towards seafood options
during our stay, but there are plenty of non-seafood items as well. The
menu was very well balanced and I think there was always a vegetarian
option as well but cannot swear that to be true. I was almost always too
full by dessert but managed to squeeze some in a couple of times.
Grand Buffet
The nights when Cassava Terrace is not a la carte
there are specialized buffets. On Monday is the Grand Buffet and Beach
Party (we missed it), on Wednesday there is a Mediterranean buffet, and
on Saturday is the International Buffet. Each buffet was full of
DELICIOUS items—fish, beef, pork, soup, mixed salads, breads,
desserts—all appropriate to the theme of the evening. Another buffet
that we did not have a chance to investigate was the “Jamaican
Restaurant” which seemed to operate as a mini-buffet outside by the
pool (or upstairs on the porch when it rained) There were SO many good
things to eat at all the restaurants but we’re still sad we didn’t
have a chance to check this one out. Next trip…..
Otaheite is the fancy-dress, reservations
required restaurant that is open 6 nights a week. We ate there
twice—on our night of arrival, Monday, management hosts a returning
guest dinner at Otaheite where you sit at large tables with a manager at
each. We dined with Ty, from Entertainment. The menu was set at this
meal—beef tenderloin and lobster tail were the entrée (guess you make
everyone happy when you serve surf & turf ) We ate there again on
Friday night during a “regular” meal. Again, the menu is varied so
everyone should be able to find something to enjoy. The style is
somewhat Caribbean fusion—local ingredients cooked in a gourmet style.
And the presentation is amazing! Another woman at our table had her
gazpacho served in a coconut shell, and my panne cotta dessert was
served in a coconut shell as well  |
| Activities: |
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My goal this trip was to exercise every day, and I
almost succeeded. I woke up at my traditional 6:00 am on the first
morning and went to the cardio room and used the recumbent bike before
breakfast. The rest of the week I attended various classes held by Amy,
the visiting instructor who is from New Mexico. She was amazing! She was
enthusiastic, knowledgeable, fun & safe. I did yoga, body sculpting,
water aerobics a couple of times.
The cardio room has lots more equipment than
I remember three years ago (though the tv was sadly missing when I was
there). There were treadmills, stairclimbers, bikes (both recumbent and
upright) and a machine I believe is an elliptical but since I don’t
use those, correct me if I’m wrong. While there were people using this
room (even at 6 am when I was there) it was never full and there were
machines available if you wanted. The weight room and aerobics studio
also usually had at least one person using the weights (Cybex machines
and free weights) but again, it was never crowded. If you wanted to use
a mat and do stretches or floor exercises and there was a class in the
studio, you could take a mat someplace else. Each day’s schedule of
classes was different and usually posted the night before, on a board in
the front of the aerobics studio so you could check it out before bed
and plan the next day.
Similarly, other resort activities were
posted daily on a board outside the Beach Grill. This board had games
around the resort as well as off-site tours & trips departure times.
As I mentioned, we were feeling extremely lazy and didn’t do a
whole lot of things. The only off-site trips we did were the glass
bottom boat tour (I won’t snorkel or scuba so this is my only
opportunity to see any marine life, plus we didn’t do it on our last
trip) and the walking trip to the crafts market across the street (we
didn’t buy anything and mainly just did that to see something new). 
The
Catamaran trip (“Booze Cruise”) was cancelled a couple of times due
to bad weather (we didn’t plan to go on it so it didn’t bother us)
and the shopping trip by boat was overcrowded so they had to supplement
with another power boat (we didn’t do that trip either—just watched
everyone loading as we dozed in our beach loungers).
The one thing my husband was enthusiastically looking forward to
was windsurfing, which he learned to do on our honeymoon. He valiantly
took windsurfers out each day, trying different times throughout the
day, but rarely did he find good wind. Presumably the sailors discovered
the same lack of wind—I know the watersports staff had to tow a few
people back in (my husband chose to swim and tow the board back—he got
his workout that day!)  
One activity I really enjoyed was the
Jamaican cooking demonstration, held by Morice the asst sous chef (I
know, sounds redundant doesn’t it?) out on the boardwalk next to the
beach grill. We learned to steam snapper in coconut milk—we got a
recipe handout and samples too!! I had to buy a Jamaican cookbook before
I left (got one at the airport, probably could find it on the internet
too) We watched other
activities—pool volleyball, jeopardy in the piano bar (got there just
a little too late to participate so we sat with others in the audience
and heckled/helped), bocce ball, horseshoes—there was a nice blend of
physically and mentally engaging activities. The biggest different I
noticed between the 40% occupancy of our honeymoon and the 80-something%
occupancy of last week is that more people participated in
activities—I didn’t notice crowds or lines for food or drinks and
lounge chairs were always available, but there were just more people to
do things with—I consider this a good thing. Of course, if you just
want to stay in your lounge chair by the pool all day and drink, you can
do that too! (I did!) I brought home a typical activities schedule, and
some have been posted online, so if you have any questions you can email
me. Activities do change over time, and there are things I never did.
For instance, we go to bed early and I (STILL) haven’t made it to the
piano bar sing along or karaoke. I didn’t go to the auction (you can
win Couples money by participating in various activities and then bid on
things at the auction) Never made it to the disco. Nightlife isn’t a
big part of our island holiday (one of the major reasons we chose
Couples) so I’m sorry I cannot report on it. |
| Spa: |
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As returning guests, we each got a free half hour
massage. On our honeymoon, we upgraded this to an hour-long couples
massage (where you’re in the room together). This time, my husband
only wanted the half hour but I still wanted an hour so I upgraded on my
own. I also requested Doreen who had massaged me before, and she was
available. We scheduled our massages at 9:30, which works out
nicely—you don’t really want to eat or drink right before a massage,
and we’re over breakfast (we eat as soon as it opens, 7:30) and the
bars aren’t open until 10 so you’re not typically drinking yet. The
spa building doesn’t have walls to the ceiling but it’s very quiet
and restful. Each room has a ceiling fan to keep things cool. Doreen is
a goddess and if I fantasize I can still feel her fingers massaging my
scalp (I forgot to bring a baseball hat so if anyone saw me and my
Madeline Kahn/Young Frankenstein hair when I left, I apologize if I
frightened you—but I felt GOOOOOOOOOD) The massage is a blend of
styles and her firmness was just right for me. On a future trip, I’d
love to take advantage of some of the other specials they have, maybe a
wrap and a massage. I brought home a spa price list; if anyone has
questions, please email me.
In all, I thought 6 nights was a little too short,
but I think I really needed this vacation. Some people only go for long
weekends and I don’t know how they can tear themselves away! We had a
relaxing time and did most of the things we wanted to. The staff were
all helpful and efficient and treated us well.
    
    

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