Pu'U Uli Auku'u
Kelly & Dane Deal

Home Page

Jamaica Trip Report 5/24/04-5/30/04

Couples Negril

 I think I’ve got a touch of island fever

I do believe I feel a bit sautéed

~Jimmy Buffett

Beach&floaties.JPG (76718 bytes)Building1.JPG (84174 bytes)Couples_entrance.JPG (87530 bytes)Pool_bar.JPG (84547 bytes)Gardens3.JPG (87829 bytes)Terrace_buffet3.JPG (86034 bytes)

Since we were mostly incredibly lazy and didn’t do much other than soak up the sun, I’ll do a topical report instead of chronological. This was our second trip to Couples Negril; we spent our honeymoon there in November, 2000.  We like the weather better in November—less rain, more wind—so we’ll probably wait until fall when we make our next trip. Yes, we liked the resort enough to do a second trip, and still enjoy it enough that we’ll plan another one in the future. Not so many trips that we exclude other destinations but often enough that we can go and fully relax and enjoy each other’s company. That and drink rum, of course.  For those of you who aren’t familiar with this resort, Couples is an all-inclusive resort—all food and drinks (including top shelf alcohol) plus activities & sports—including scuba and water-skiing—are included in your price. Couples has three resorts in Jamaica—Couples Ocho Rios, Couples Swept Away (on the beach in Negril) and Couples Negril (which is on Bloody Bay in Negril, in between Grand Lido and the older of the Riu properties in Negril—the newest Riu is around the Bay further.) The resort is fairly small—around 240 rooms. It is a resort for adult, mixed-sex couples only.  While the majority of people seem to be on their honeymoon or celebrating anniversaries, there are others like us who want a nice relaxing & romantic vacation without a special occasion to go along. I would say the majority of people who were there this week were in their late 20s through late 30s, with smatterings of older couples as well. As this was not our honeymoon and there were more people at the resort than there were on our honeymoon, we socialized more this time—around the pool, at meals, at the bars, etc. People were all very friendly and open to chatting in the public areas, and if you want more privacy there is ample time and location for that as well.

Getting There:

We flew American Airlines through Miami to Montego Bay, no hassles, quick trip. We passed through immigration and customs without problem or lines (our flight was not full and there weren’t many other flights arriving at the same time). Went to the new Couples booth in the airport (well, it’s new to us—I did say it’s been 3 ½ years since we were in Jamaica) and there was a crowd of people and luggage waiting there. A Couples agent asked our name, gave us our registration card to fill out and told us it would be about 20 minutes, so we went to the bathroom and tried to stretch out our muscles a little. Some people were getting Red Stripes at a bar but we’d had a couple minis on the plane and were set. As promised, about 15 minutes later the porters started loading our luggage and they directed the Swept Away and Negril people outside to the buses where they separated us again. We left the airport at 11:00 am and arrived at the resort about 12:15. The drive was uneventful—we had 7 or 8 couples on the bus but it was pretty quiet—everyone seemed self-contained, and we just enjoyed the scenery as we drove through the countryside.  

We had a 4:00pm return flight out of Montego Bay so we took a shuttle at 12:15. We were VERY full on this trip, a little more social, and it just took an hour to get back to the airport. The check-in lines weren’t bad, security was quick, and we had plenty of time to pick up all the souvenirs we were too lazy to buy in Negril—we didn’t go into town for a shopping trip because we weren’t planning to get much.

The Resort:

Check-in took about 10 minutes—we sat down, they came around with cool cloths and then champagne flutes. Soon a desk clerk came by to ask for our registration cards, our visitor cards (from immigration), our credit cards, and hotel vouchers if appropriate (we booked directly with the resort). When the clerk took my information I requested the 3rd floor of Building 1, as that is where we spent our honeymoon and thought the location was perfect. She came back and told me that Bldg 1 was full and she had to put us in Building 2 (just next door) but we could check back the next day for availability in Bldg 1. We planned to do that but decided that Building 2 was just as convenient as Bldg 1 so we stayed put.  We had a Gardenview room—this is the cheapest room and perfectly fine in my opinion. We like the third floor—despite the extra stairs involved—because when we sit on the balcony we’re at tree top level with the birds. Plus, no one is above us. I have no idea if you hear room noise from people above you or not—we never heard any room noise from the sides, except when we were outside and others were also out on their balconies.

The deluxe gardenview room has a tile floor (occasionally slippery, so do be careful), a king bed with low tables on each side, reading lamps, a side chair, entertainment cabinet & table, standing drawers, and closet with luggage rack. The balcony contained two faux wicker chairs and a table, as well as a towel rack for drying (there are also several wooden hooks inside the room for drying swimsuits & towels).  There are mirrors and outlets in the room (none in our bathroom, and the bathroom hairdryer is hard wired, so if you bring your own hair dryer you’ll have to do your hair in the bedroom) There’s also a full length mirror on the back of the door, a safe in the closet (it has a keyed lock you get at check-in) and a large umbrella. We never used ours, despite the rain, but we saw others using it—it’s a HUGE golf umbrella, will easily cover two people. There is air conditioning and a ceiling fan and both work great! Bugs LOVE me so we had to sleep with the balcony doors closed and the a/c on. If bugs don’t bother you, you can probably sleep with the doors open and the fan on instead. Several people have mentioned low water pressure and that continues to be a problem, but if you give it a couple minutes the water pressure (and hot water) will come back. It didn’t ruin my stay, that’s for sure! Also, I had no problem with the hairdryer that comes standard in the bathroom—it’s a regular 1500 watt, not a salon dryer but it gets the job done. Plus, it doubles as a nightlight—very cool!

The resort is laid out sort of like a bow-tie—the main building and pool are in the center with residential room blocks on either side. That’s very simplistic, and a quick look at any map will tell you it doesn’t look like a bow-tie, but that’s still how I think of it.  “Our” side had 5 room blocks (buildings), the spa, some fish ponds, the tennis courts and nurse’s station, and if you went to the beach, you found the bocce ball court, water sports and the scuba pool.  The main building holds the lobby, piano bar, administrative offices, gift shops, internet room, Cassava Terrace restaurant and the Main Bar, kitchens, cardio room and the aerobics studio. In front of this building is the Beach Grill and Bar, pool and pool bar & hot tubs, and then the beach. On the other side are 4 room blocks, fish ponds, wedding gazebo, nude beach (yes, the signs say “nude beach”, not clothing optional), the beach volleyball court and the horseshoe pit.  All along the beach are loungers and hammocks and a large swimming area is roped off. The pool is surrounded by lounge chairs with float pads, umbrellas and tables. We were told that the resort was over 80% occupancy all week yet we never had any problems with crowding, waiting for drinks or food, or finding a lounge chair. 

Drinks/Food:

This is our favorite part of the resort!!! My husband’s biggest complaint (except when he’s hung over) is that the bars don’t open until 10 am….Well, they have to restock sometime.  There are four bars—the pool bar, the Beach grill bar, Main bar and Piano bar. You can get cocktail service on the beach using a red flag. We mainly used the pool bar and Beach Grill bar. All the bartenders were friendly and I never had to wait more than a couple minutes to get a drink, no matter how many people were around.  I noticed that the bars had Red Stripe Light now (due to some keg issues, I was never sure what kind of beer would be available at whatever bar I was at—but no problem mon!)  We had lots of rum drinks and rum cream drinks because, well, who wants to drink vodka in Jamaica (apparently, lots of people do, but I don’t drink it at home so I’m not going to drink it on vacation—we’re rum drinkers) I also filled my water bottle quite frequently at the self-serve station in the Beach Grill. They have soda and fruit juice too, but I’m a Diet Coke drinker and Couples only has Pepsi products.

 There are three restaurants and seemingly many more dining options—they’re very flexible! The restaurants are the Cassava Terrace, the Beach Grill, and Otaheite, and we ate in all of them. We ate a great deal, it seems. Breakfast is a large buffet in Cassava Terrace that opens at 7:30 (coffee is available before that, and there are also coffee makers in each room) This buffet is wonderful and covers ALL the bases. There is an omelet station, pancakes, breads, muffins, Danish, and bagels, fresh fruit, a woman making smoothies, yogurt & cheese, bacon, sausage, potatoes, and then a Jamaican specialty that was different each day. I usually got a bagel with cream cheese and smoked fish (they had smoked salmon or smoked marlin each day) and bacon, and whatever else looked yummy that morning. Had a smoothie one day. Had mango and soursop fruit another day. Coffee or tea, and water are delivered to your table, and fruit juices are available on the buffet. You can order room service for breakfast—you put a sign on your door the night before stating what time you want it delivered (half-hour time slots) but the options are limited—fruit and/or muffins & such. We like breakfast and usually want more than that so we didn’t use that option this trip. Dane@breakfast2.JPG (85706 bytes)Circular_stairway.JPG (85785 bytes)Terrace_buffet3.JPG (86034 bytes)

 The Beach Grill opens at 11:00. It has a soup of the day (I am ADDICTED to the soups at Couples and frequently had 2 or 3 bowls a day from different restaurants!) nachos, fruit & salad (varied by day—one day they had a Caesar salad station, one day they had baba ghanouj & hummus with crudités, etc) At the grill, you can get beef or chicken patties, hamburgers, fish & chips, jerk chicken, a couple other standard grill items. One day they had gyros, another chicken pitas. Also fries. Enterprising people got fries, added the cheese from the nacho station, and had cheese fries for their afternoon snack. In the evening, the Beach Grill becomes a pasta and “basics” restaurant—steak, chicken breast, fish. Alas, we never made it for dinner this trip. I had several enjoyable meals there—I love the Jamaican beef or chicken patties, the jerk chicken, and the fish & chips are quite yummy too. But the star is the soup….. Last week I ate red pea soup, conch chowder, clam chowder, shrimp bisque, split pea soup, pumpkin soup, pepperpot soup, creamy potato soup, chicken noodle soup, and vegetable & beef soup. I loved them ALL!Kelly&JerkChicken.JPG (87587 bytes)Dane&Fish&Chips.JPG (87676 bytes)

 Cassava Terrace has a lunch buffet that runs from 12:30-2:30 I think. They also have a soup of the day (two soups at lunch is why I often ate between the two restaurants), sandwiches, salads (pre-made as well as lettuce and other raw veggies) and hot dishes, including local specialties. Then fruit and desserts too. Huge selection. More food choices than I need at lunch! Sometimes we’d eat in the restaurant (which is a lovely open-sided area with a tall wooden ceiling, fans, and views of the ocean if you sit in the smoking area. The non-smoking side can be a little dark, but you need a rest from the harsh glare of the sun sometimes.)  Sometimes I’d get a plate and go back to my lounger at the pool and eat there.

 About half the week, Cassava Terrace has an a la carte menu and seated service for dinner. When this is the case, the menu is placed outside the restaurant so you can decide if you want to eat there. The Beach Grill also posts its evening menu ahead of time. Cassava Terrace meals include an appetizer, soup, salad bar (similar to the one at the lunch buffet), entrée, and dessert. Wine is served by the waiters, or you can get cocktail service from the adjacent Main Bar.  We LOVE seafood and seemed to gravitate towards seafood options during our stay, but there are plenty of non-seafood items as well. The menu was very well balanced and I think there was always a vegetarian option as well but cannot swear that to be true. I was almost always too full by dessert but managed to squeeze some in a couple of times.

 GrandBuffet@Pool.JPG (86899 bytes) Grand Buffet

The nights when Cassava Terrace is not a la carte there are specialized buffets. On Monday is the Grand Buffet and Beach Party (we missed it), on Wednesday there is a Mediterranean buffet, and on Saturday is the International Buffet. Each buffet was full of DELICIOUS items—fish, beef, pork, soup, mixed salads, breads, desserts—all appropriate to the theme of the evening. Another buffet that we did not have a chance to investigate was the “Jamaican Restaurant” which seemed to operate as a mini-buffet outside by the pool (or upstairs on the porch when it rained) There were SO many good things to eat at all the restaurants but we’re still sad we didn’t have a chance to check this one out. Next trip…..

 Otaheite is the fancy-dress, reservations required restaurant that is open 6 nights a week. We ate there twice—on our night of arrival, Monday, management hosts a returning guest dinner at Otaheite where you sit at large tables with a manager at each. We dined with Ty, from Entertainment. The menu was set at this meal—beef tenderloin and lobster tail were the entrée (guess you make everyone happy when you serve surf & turf ) We ate there again on Friday night during a “regular” meal. Again, the menu is varied so everyone should be able to find something to enjoy. The style is somewhat Caribbean fusion—local ingredients cooked in a gourmet style. And the presentation is amazing! Another woman at our table had her gazpacho served in a coconut shell, and my panne cotta dessert was served in a coconut shell as well Kelly@otaheite.JPG (83863 bytes)

Activities:

My goal this trip was to exercise every day, and I almost succeeded. I woke up at my traditional 6:00 am on the first morning and went to the cardio room and used the recumbent bike before breakfast. The rest of the week I attended various classes held by Amy, the visiting instructor who is from New Mexico. She was amazing! She was enthusiastic, knowledgeable, fun & safe. I did yoga, body sculpting, water aerobics a couple of times.Kelly@Aquacize.JPG (88885 bytes)

 The cardio room has lots more equipment than I remember three years ago (though the tv was sadly missing when I was there). There were treadmills, stairclimbers, bikes (both recumbent and upright) and a machine I believe is an elliptical but since I don’t use those, correct me if I’m wrong. While there were people using this room (even at 6 am when I was there) it was never full and there were machines available if you wanted. The weight room and aerobics studio also usually had at least one person using the weights (Cybex machines and free weights) but again, it was never crowded. If you wanted to use a mat and do stretches or floor exercises and there was a class in the studio, you could take a mat someplace else. Each day’s schedule of classes was different and usually posted the night before, on a board in the front of the aerobics studio so you could check it out before bed and plan the next day.

 Similarly, other resort activities were posted daily on a board outside the Beach Grill. This board had games around the resort as well as off-site tours & trips departure times.  As I mentioned, we were feeling extremely lazy and didn’t do a whole lot of things. The only off-site trips we did were the glass bottom boat tour (I won’t snorkel or scuba so this is my only opportunity to see any marine life, plus we didn’t do it on our last trip) and the walking trip to the crafts market across the street (we didn’t buy anything and mainly just did that to see something new). BoatTour2.JPG (83710 bytes)GlassBottomBoat.JPG (77583 bytes) Water_GlassBottomBoat.JPG (80128 bytes)The Catamaran trip (“Booze Cruise”) was cancelled a couple of times due to bad weather (we didn’t plan to go on it so it didn’t bother us) and the shopping trip by boat was overcrowded so they had to supplement with another power boat (we didn’t do that trip either—just watched everyone loading as we dozed in our beach loungers).  The one thing my husband was enthusiastically looking forward to was windsurfing, which he learned to do on our honeymoon. He valiantly took windsurfers out each day, trying different times throughout the day, but rarely did he find good wind. Presumably the sailors discovered the same lack of wind—I know the watersports staff had to tow a few people back in (my husband chose to swim and tow the board back—he got his workout that day!) Dane_windsurfer.JPG (86896 bytes)Dane_windsurfer5.JPG (82660 bytes)

 One activity I really enjoyed was the Jamaican cooking demonstration, held by Morice the asst sous chef (I know, sounds redundant doesn’t it?) out on the boardwalk next to the beach grill. We learned to steam snapper in coconut milk—we got a recipe handout and samples too!! I had to buy a Jamaican cookbook before I left (got one at the airport, probably could find it on the internet too)  We watched other activities—pool volleyball, jeopardy in the piano bar (got there just a little too late to participate so we sat with others in the audience and heckled/helped), bocce ball, horseshoes—there was a nice blend of physically and mentally engaging activities. The biggest different I noticed between the 40% occupancy of our honeymoon and the 80-something% occupancy of last week is that more people participated in activities—I didn’t notice crowds or lines for food or drinks and lounge chairs were always available, but there were just more people to do things with—I consider this a good thing. Of course, if you just want to stay in your lounge chair by the pool all day and drink, you can do that too! (I did!) I brought home a typical activities schedule, and some have been posted online, so if you have any questions you can email me. Activities do change over time, and there are things I never did. For instance, we go to bed early and I (STILL) haven’t made it to the piano bar sing along or karaoke. I didn’t go to the auction (you can win Couples money by participating in various activities and then bid on things at the auction) Never made it to the disco. Nightlife isn’t a big part of our island holiday (one of the major reasons we chose Couples) so I’m sorry I cannot report on it.

Spa:

As returning guests, we each got a free half hour massage. On our honeymoon, we upgraded this to an hour-long couples massage (where you’re in the room together). This time, my husband only wanted the half hour but I still wanted an hour so I upgraded on my own. I also requested Doreen who had massaged me before, and she was available. We scheduled our massages at 9:30, which works out nicely—you don’t really want to eat or drink right before a massage, and we’re over breakfast (we eat as soon as it opens, 7:30) and the bars aren’t open until 10 so you’re not typically drinking yet. The spa building doesn’t have walls to the ceiling but it’s very quiet and restful. Each room has a ceiling fan to keep things cool. Doreen is a goddess and if I fantasize I can still feel her fingers massaging my scalp (I forgot to bring a baseball hat so if anyone saw me and my Madeline Kahn/Young Frankenstein hair when I left, I apologize if I frightened you—but I felt GOOOOOOOOOD) The massage is a blend of styles and her firmness was just right for me. On a future trip, I’d love to take advantage of some of the other specials they have, maybe a wrap and a massage. I brought home a spa price list; if anyone has questions, please email me.

In all, I thought 6 nights was a little too short, but I think I really needed this vacation. Some people only go for long weekends and I don’t know how they can tear themselves away! We had a relaxing time and did most of the things we wanted to. The staff were all helpful and efficient and treated us well.

Sunset.JPG (84396 bytes)Sunset2.JPG (85222 bytes)Sunset5.JPG (80643 bytes)Sunset6.JPG (86083 bytes)Sunset7.JPG (82586 bytes)Sunset3.JPG (80810 bytes)

Beach.JPG (87690 bytes)Beach_Couples.JPG (86997 bytes)Beach_view.JPG (84850 bytes)Gardens2.JPG (82239 bytes)Logo_woodcarving.JPG (85199 bytes)Pool.JPG (87583 bytes)

Pool3.JPG (85812 bytes)